Rolex Submariner Buying Guide: Date, No-Date or Vintage?

The Most Famous Dive Watch in the World

If you picture "a Rolex," there's a good chance you're picturing a Submariner. Black dial, rotating bezel, Oyster bracelet. It's been copied by almost every watch brand on earth, and it's still the benchmark everyone else is measured against.

That fame makes buying one surprisingly complicated. Date or no-date? Black or green? New, pre-owned or vintage? And why do prices online seem to change from one website to the next?

This Rolex Submariner buying guide answers all of that. You'll learn how the Submariner evolved, what today's models really cost, the honest pros and cons of each option, and how to buy one without getting burned.

A Short History of the Submariner

Rolex introduced the Submariner in the early 1950s, with the first models, such as ref. 6204, appearing around 1953 to 1954. It was one of the first wristwatches built specifically for divers, with a rotating bezel to track time underwater.

For its first fifteen years, every Submariner was a no-date watch. Then, in 1969, Rolex added a date with ref. 1680, creating the Submariner Date. From that point on, both versions have existed side by side, and the date-or-no-date debate has been running ever since.

Here's how the main steel generations line up:

• 5512 and 5513 (late 1950s to 1989): classic vintage no-dates, now highly collectable
• 1680 (1969 to about 1980): the first Submariner Date, famous for its "Red Sub" variants
• 16800 and 168000 (1980s): the switch to sapphire crystal and quickset date
• 16610 (1988 to about 2010): the long-running neo-vintage date with an aluminium bezel
• 14060 and 14060M (about 1990 to 2012): the neo-vintage no-date
• 116610LN and 114060 (2010 to 2020): the first ceramic-bezel generation, with the broader "maxi" case
• 126610LN, 126610LV and 124060 (2020 onward): today's 41mm models

The green-bezel Submariners have their own story, from the original "Kermit" to the "Hulk." Our Rolex bezel guide explains how Rolex creates its coloured ceramic bezels.

The Current Submariner Line-Up

Since 2020, all steel Submariners share the same core recipe:

• Case: 41mm Oystersteel, with slimmer lugs than the 2010–2020 generation
• Movement: calibre 3230 (no-date) or calibre 3235 (date), with about 70 hours of power reserve
• Bezel: unidirectional rotating bezel with a scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic insert
• Water resistance: 300m
• Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with the Glidelock clasp, which adjusts length without tools

Curious about the steel itself? Here's what makes Oystersteel different.

Option 1: The Submariner No-Date (Ref. 124060)

The no-date is the Submariner in its purest form. No date window, no Cyclops magnifier, just a perfectly symmetrical black dial. It's the closest modern Rolex gets to the original 1950s design.

• US retail: $10,050
• Pre-owned median: about $14,600 (Bob's Watches, September 2026)
• WatchCharts market price: about $12,300 (September 30, 2026)

Choose the no-date if you love clean, balanced design, want the most "tool watch" version, or simply don't need a date. Many collectors argue it's the better-looking Submariner.

Option 2: The Submariner Date (Ref. 126610LN)

The 126610LN is the Submariner most people picture. It adds a date window at 3 o'clock with Rolex's Cyclops lens, which magnifies the date for easy reading.

• US retail: $11,350
• Pre-owned median: about $15,800 (Bob's Watches, September 2026)

Choose the Date if you'll wear it every day and find a date genuinely useful. It's the more practical choice for most people, and it's the most recognisable Rolex there is. If you've never set a Rolex date before, our Rolex date-setting guide explains it, including the hours to avoid.

The Green-Bezel 126610LV

The 126610LV pairs a green ceramic bezel with a black dial. It's the colourful option in the steel line-up, and it's usually nicknamed the "Starbucks," though some still call it the "Kermit" after the earlier green-bezel model.

• US retail: $11,900
• Pre-owned median: about $16,200 (Bob's Watches, September 2026)

If you want a Submariner that stands out a little more, this is it. Just know that you're paying a bit more for the colour.

Option 3: A Vintage or Neo-Vintage Submariner

Older Submariners appeal for different reasons: aluminium bezels that fade beautifully, older lume that ages to warm tones, slimmer proportions and real history.

Neo-Vintage: The Smart Middle Ground

The ref. 16610 Submariner Date and 14060M no-date, made into the late 2000s, are popular starting points. They have sapphire crystals and reliable movements, but keep the slimmer case and aluminium bezel of older models. Bob's Watches reports that discontinued steel Submariners start around $9,900 pre-owned, often less than a new model's market price.

True Vintage: For Collectors

The 5512, 5513 and 1680 are collector territory. Values depend heavily on dial type, originality and condition, and the best examples sell for well into five figures or more. These need expert knowledge to buy safely, since dials, bezels and hands are often replaced over the decades.

Before buying any older Submariner, it helps to know its production year. Check the serial number and compare it with the watch's features. Our guide to buying a vintage Rolex Date 1500 covers the same originality checks that apply to vintage Submariners.

Date vs No-Date vs Vintage: Which Should You Buy?

• Buy the 124060 no-date if you want the purest design, the lowest retail price and a true tool-watch feel.
• Buy the 126610LN date if you want the most practical everyday Submariner and the classic "Rolex" look.
• Buy the 126610LV if you want the same watch with a little more personality.
• Buy a 16610 or 14060M if you want vintage charm with modern reliability, at a lower price.
• Buy a 5513 or 1680 only if you're a collector prepared to research originality carefully.

Our honest pick for most first-time buyers: the 126610LN if you'll use the date, or the 124060 if you won't. Both are modern, robust and easy to service.

Why Submariner Prices Look So Different Online

Search for Submariner prices and you'll see wildly different numbers. There are a few reasons:

• Retail prices change. Rolex raised prices in January 2026, with a second increase in June that hit gold models, so older articles often quote outdated figures.
• Pre-owned prices depend on condition and paperwork. A full set with box and papers sells for more than a watch alone.
• "Unworn" pieces command more than lightly worn ones.
• Different data sources measure differently. Dealer sales, marketplace listings and price indexes rarely agree exactly.

For more context, see what collectors think of Rolex's price increases and how much Rolex prices have risen over time.

Can You Buy a Submariner at Retail?

Yes, but it usually takes patience. The steel Submariner remains one of the hardest Rolexes to get from an authorised dealer, and most retailers prioritise clients with a buying history. Here's how the Rolex waiting list really works in 2026.

If waiting isn't for you, the pre-owned market is the fastest route. Expect to pay roughly $4,000 to $5,000 above retail for a current steel model.

How to Buy a Submariner Safely

The Submariner is one of the most counterfeited watches in the world, so take your time.

1. Choose the seller carefully. Buy from an authorised dealer or a reputable pre-owned dealer with a return policy and verifiable reviews.
2. Match the numbers. The serial and reference should match the warranty card.
3. Test the bezel. A genuine Submariner bezel turns only anticlockwise, with crisp, even clicks.
4. Check the Glidelock clasp. It should adjust smoothly and lock firmly.
5. Look at the details. The Cyclops should magnify the date clearly, and the dial printing should be sharp.
6. Ask about service history, especially on older models. Here's what Rolex servicing actually costs.

Before you pay, read 7 signs your Rolex might be a fake.

Submariner Alternatives Worth Knowing

• Rolex Sea-Dweller: a deeper-rated, bigger Rolex diver. Compare them in Sea-Dweller vs Deepsea.
• Tudor Black Bay: the closest thing to a Submariner at a fraction of the price. See Rolex vs Tudor.
• Affordable divers: for perspective on what the Submariner's price really buys, read Rolex Submariner vs Seiko 5.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much is a Rolex Submariner?

The Rolex Submariner No-Date ref. 124060 retails for $10,050 in the US, the Submariner Date ref. 126610LN for $11,350, and the green-bezel 126610LV for $11,900. Pre-owned, they typically sell for about $14,600, $15,800 and $16,200 respectively.

Should I buy the Submariner Date or No-Date?

Buy the No-Date (124060) if you prefer a clean, symmetrical dial and don't need a date. Buy the Date (126610LN) if you'll wear it daily and want the convenience of a date and Cyclops lens. Both share the same 41mm case, 300m water resistance and 70-hour power reserve.

What is the difference between the 126610LN and 124060?

The 126610LN has a date window with Cyclops lens and uses the calibre 3235, while the 124060 has no date and uses the calibre 3230. Otherwise, both are 41mm steel Submariners with ceramic bezels and 300m water resistance.

Is a vintage Rolex Submariner a good buy?

It can be. Neo-vintage models like the 16610 and 14060M offer character and good value from around $9,900. True vintage references like the 5513 and 1680 are collector pieces that need careful originality checks before buying.

Why is the Rolex Submariner so hard to buy at retail?

Demand for steel Submariners far exceeds supply, so authorised dealers usually allocate them to established clients. Most buyers who want one immediately purchase pre-owned, typically paying above retail.

Does the Rolex Submariner hold its value?

Yes. Current steel Submariners typically sell above their retail price on the pre-owned market, and the model is one of the most liquid luxury watches in the world.

The Bottom Line

There's no wrong Submariner, only the one that suits you. The no-date is the purist's choice, the date is the everyday champion, the green bezel adds personality, and vintage brings history you can feel.

Decide how you'll wear it, set a realistic budget and buy the seller as carefully as the watch. Get those right, and you'll own the dive watch every other dive watch is compared to.